Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a select roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a global network of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always defined its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though express concern that their children do not want to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to discover these tales and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
